Tove Hellesvik and her husband Snorre have farmed in central Norway for over 500 years. When Norsk Kylling, Norway's second-largest chicken producer, asked them to switch from the fast-growing Ross 308 to the slower Hubbard strain, they were initially skeptical. For over a decade, they raised Ross 308 chickens slaughtered after just 30 days.

The Hubbard breed lives two weeks longer, raising concerns about financial viability. Across the world, poultry farmers are reevaluating the dominant breeds Cobb, Hubbard, and Aviagen (which owns Hubbard and Ross 308). Ross 308's efficiency made chicken the most consumed meat globally, but animal welfare groups criticize the fast-growing birds for heart problems, lameness, and poor living conditions.

Hellesvik's farm saw immediate improvements: death rates dropped from 6-7% to 1%, and birds became more lively. Profitability increased as they could sell the slower-growing birds at higher prices without antibiotics. Poultry scientist Martin Zuidhof notes that genetic progress since 1957 made birds over four times heavier with half the feed, but also created health issues.

The debate centers on balancing efficiency with animal welfare.