Middle-class residents in Tehran push back against social restrictions, treating cafes as "the last pleasure" amid war and economic crisis. On Revolution Street, Lafpheh Café has endured protests and missile attacks, serving as a refuge during heavy bombardments. Co-founder Sara Kazemi views the business as a haven, noting increased patronage after every bombardment.
Across the city, cafes, theatres, and galleries are bustling as residents make the most of a temporary respite from US-Israeli war bombings. However, economic hardship is severe; inflation has soared above 80 per cent year-on-year. A cup of coffee provides an escape for many, like 35-year-old computer engineer Maryam, who visits weekly to avoid "completely collapsing under the economic and psychological pressure." Iranian cafe culture, rooted in centuries-old qahveh-khaneh, has evolved into modern spaces full of young men and women.
Discussions now center on the possibility of full-scale war and growing economic hardships. Since the year began, hundreds of thousands have lost jobs or been pushed into poverty due to sanctions and war. Cafe owners report returning customers helping businesses survive, though profits are lower in real terms.
Customers opt for cheaper options, sharing pastries or choosing black tea over expensive coffee. Restaurants have not seen a similar boom. At Nazdik-e Ketab, owner Farhad Dowlatabadi notes his best period was 2014-2017, before US sanctions re-imposed by Donald Trump intensified pressure.
Coffee prices have risen sharply, from 90,000 rials ($3) in 2014 to 2.7mn rials ($1) today. Inflation in the food sector is around 109 per cent, and supply chain disruptions from the war and US naval blockades affect imported coffee beans. Co-founder Sara Kazemi worries the government may classify coffee as a luxury, imposing further tariffs, while cafes remain central to the battle for personal freedoms.
Source: Financial Times Companies · Summarized by HeadlinesBriefing