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The Missoni Family Exit And Brand Restructuring

Financial Times Companies •
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Silvia Sciorilli Borrelli Published September 16 2026 The Missoni family were once as emblematic of their namesake brand as the instantly recognisable knitted zigzag prints and kaleidoscopic beachwear they sold around the world. Noisy, elegant and effortlessly close, embodying an optimistic vision of both postwar Italy and la dolce vita, for decades assorted generations worked in boardrooms and design studios for the business, appeared in advertising campaigns or mingled on the fashion week front row. But Missoni never quite converted its cachet into a luxury empire like accessories-orientated rivals such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton.

Destabilised by family tragedy, a complex licensing structure, creative mis-steps and ultimately lacking the scale or commercial firepower to compete as the industry consolidated around billion-dollar brands, Missoni’s cultural influence eventually far outstripped its commercial success. In 2018, the family decided to bring in outside investment and sold a minority stake to Milan-based private equity fund FSI. By this spring, FSI held a 73 per cent stake while German investment group Katjes International owned 27 per cent: the Missonis had exited their 73-year-old label completely.

Angela Missoni, who was creative director between 1997 and 2021, stepped aside when asked, believing the baton would go to her daughter Margherita, who was also let go. Missoni chief executive Livio Proli, who took up the role in 2020, characterised the end of the family’s ownership as a "natural evolution" and added that the pandemic had exposed weaknesses in the business model. Under his leadership, revenues were close to €125mn in 2025.

Founder Ottavio Missoni, a former Olympic hurdler, and his wife Rosita Jelmini grew the company from a small workshop into a lifestyle brand encompassing ready-to-wear, beachwear, homeware and interiors, rooted in Sumirago, north-west of Milan, where its knitwear is still designed and largely produced.