In Switzerland this week, more than 70 watch brands gathered for Geneva Watch Days, ranging from global names like Breitling and Bvlgari to small independents. Each is banking on the event to boost sales against an industry in flux.

“The market is a very mixed bag,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, president of Geneva Watch Days and chair of the Bvlgari board. “Some of the more institutional brands are the most resilient. Those in the middle are more in trouble.” Babin co-founded Geneva Watch Days in 2020 after the collapse of Baselworld. Its first edition attracted 17 brands; this year, he expects 17,000 attendees.

Watches and Wonders Geneva, also launched in 2020, now hosts major brands including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. Audemars Piguet joined last year. New entrants like Time to Drive Miami Car & Watch Fest and The Escapement (now relocating to Las Vegas) are forecasting thousands of visitors.

Success remains uncertain. Bullish organiser forecasts contrast with cautious buyers and declining Swiss watch export values. Basilia, debuting in Basel next April, faces skepticism. “We will have to earn trust back,” says Roman Imgrüth of MCH Exhibitions. No exhibitors confirmed yet.