High-end boom masks Swiss watch industry polarisation. Ultra-luxury timepieces now account for three-quarters of the sector's growth, creating a divide among watchmakers while collectors remain enthusiastic. Bvlgari's new CEO Laura Burdese discusses experimenting with established designs, the rise of women's watches, and creative decisions in the age of AI.

Watch fairs are mushrooming despite industry gloom, stretching brands' budgets as events multiply. Designers are latching onto the low-fi looks of the 1990s, yearning for simplicity and a revival of analogue age aesthetics. Manchester makers shine a light on regional craft heritage through the city's inaugural jewellery week, giving artists more chances to exhibit outside London.

The third-generation maker Susannah King blends TikTok with tradition, creating pieces that mix the ancient and futuristic while mastering viral videos. Jewellery collaborations have come of age, evolving from mere convenience to adding value for both brands. Precious stone scarcity squeezes the market for alternatives, with prices rising as consumer tastes shift.

The Riviera set sees local makers carving a niche on the Côte d'Azur through bespoke services and unusual designs. Ring watches are winning over younger buyers seeking a playful, analogue style. Deconstructed timepieces like the Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago, designed for cycling star Tadej Pogačar, carry the name of the racing bike maker.