Chinese luxury brand Icicle is forging ahead with international expansion plans despite a sector-wide slowdown. The Shanghai-founded label, known for minimalist cashmere and silk ready-to-wear, aims to open stores in London, Milan, and the US following a minority investment from Kering in April. Icicle also appointed former Gucci designer Sabato De Sarno as creative director. Executive president Louise Xu said Kering's backing will accelerate development and bring European craftsmanship expertise. Founded in 1997 by Ye Shouzeng and Shawna Tao, Icicle operates over 240 stores in mainland China and five outlets across Paris and Ireland. The brand plans to expand into handbags and footwear, with products priced between £100 and £5,000.

Icicle's ambitions stand out amid industry headwinds. Kering itself is under pressure, with CEO Luca de Meo restructuring the group to reboot profitability. Chinese fashion companies have historically pursued international growth via acquisitions of European labels, often with poor results. Shandong Ruyi defaulted on debts after buying stakes in brands like Gieves & Hawkes, while Lanvin Group reported a €263mn net loss in 2025. Icicle previously acquired French label Carven in 2018, though revival efforts have faced challenges. The brand benefits from rising demand for homegrown Chinese luxury alternatives like Laopu Gold.