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Wagyu’s New‑Age Labeling Sparks Market Shake‑Ups

New York Times Top Stories •
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In Los Angeles, a $24 cheesesteak at Matū showcases eight ounces of Japanese A5 Wagyu, sparking debate over what diners actually pay for. The sandwich’s popularity illustrates how premium beef has migrated from elite steakhouses to mainstream menus.

The American Wagyu Association’s recent USDA‑certified “Authentic Wagyu” label sets a new bar for marbling and lineage, aiming to protect consumers from mislabeling. Vermont Wagyu’s Sheila Patinkin notes that U.S. Wagyu, while approaching Japanese standards, remains distinct.

Meanwhile, Japan seeks to reclaim its brand by training chefs worldwide to handle true A5 cuts, hoping smaller producers gain recognition. As retailers and restaurants mix U.S., Australian, and Japanese stocks, the market faces growing scrutiny over authenticity and pricing.