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Watches and Wonders 2026: Major Trends and Timepieces

Financial Times Companies •
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The Watches and Wonders 2026 fair in Geneva showcased 65 brands including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, marking its biggest edition yet with the return of Audemars Piguet after a six-year absence. The event highlighted several key trends including vintage-inspired designs, skeletonisation, and space-themed timepieces. Rolex celebrated its Oyster's centennial with a 41mm model featuring a slate dial and gold bezel crown bearing the number 100.

Vintage aesthetics dominated the show, with brands like Vacheron Constantin presenting the Historiques American 1921, a dress watch inspired by 1920s driving watches. Cartier continued its vintage-inspired success with the Santos-Dumont featuring an obsidian stone dial. The fair also saw a shift toward smaller case sizes, exemplified by Bvlgari's new 37mm Octo Finissimo with a 72-hour power reserve and A Lange & Söhne's 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendar.

Technical innovations were prominent, with IWC Schaffhausen launching a space-certified tool watch crafted from white zirconium oxide ceramic for £22,600. TAG Heuer unveiled its skeletonised Monaco Evergraph with a new movement developed over five years. Patek Philippe introduced its first wristwatch displaying sunrise and sunset times at £353,210. The fair demonstrated the industry's continued focus on craftsmanship, with Audemars Piguet's new Ateliers des Établisseurs division dedicated to preserving rare watchmaking techniques.