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Fashion's Sustainability Retreat: Brands Backtrack on Climate Goals

Financial Times Companies •
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Record-breaking 40°C heat at Paris Fashion Week served as a metaphor for the industry's waning sustainability commitments. After a peak of ambitious pledges less than a decade ago, post-pandemic efforts have faded amid Trump administration rollbacks, right-wing climate skepticism, and the rise of ultrafast brands like Shein.

Major brands are backtracking: Burberry pushed its net-zero target to 2050, Under Armour abandoned it entirely, and Nike ceased public sustainability reporting. Meanwhile, H&M and Kering have cut emissions by over a third from a 2022 baseline. The EU's ESPR ban on destroying unsold clothes took effect last month, but global garment production continues to surge.

Experts cite a lack of accountability. "The rules and rewards haven't changed," says Ken Pucker of Tufts University, noting no ramifications for missing environmental targets. Consultant Rachel Arthur warns that hyped innovations like rental and recycling haven't scaled. Jules Lennon of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation argues systemic solutions like tax reform are needed, as brands trying to improve are commercially punished.

Garment workers in Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, and Vietnam face fallout as supplier contracts are cut. Consumers cannot drive change alone; structural shifts are required.