Anacchiara Biondi Published September 16 2026 Jump to comments section Print this page Stay informed with free updates Simply sign up to the Fashion my FT Digest -- delivered directly to your inbox. As question marks linger over its future ownership, Giorgio Armani has announced Dario Vitale as creative director of Emporio Armani, the first external creative appointment at the Italian company since the death of its eponymous founder. Vitale, 43, built his industry reputation as the ready-to-wear design director at Prada-owned fashion brand Miu Miu before a tenure as creative director at Versace ended abruptly after a single season last year.

He will take the design reins of Giorgio Armani accessories as well as the top design job at Emporio Armani, a diffusion line launched by Giorgio Armani in 1981 to cater to a younger consumer. In his new design role, Vitale replaces Leo Dell’Orco, who is also the group’s chair, head of men’s design at Giorgio Armani and Armani’s right-hand man, and Silvana Armani, who is Armani’s niece, head of women’s design at Giorgio Armani and vice-chair at the group. The duo has overseen all of the business’s labels, including Armani Exchange and Armani Privé, since the death of Giorgio Armani in September 2025, which sent the group into a period of protracted uncertainty as to the future owners of the Armani empire. "The appointment of Dario Vitale marks an important milestone for the Armani Group," Giuseppe Marsocci, chief executive and managing director of the Armani Group, says. "Emporio Armani is a brand of strategic relevance for us and Giorgio Armani accessories represent a great opportunity." Vitale, who was born near Naples, joins the family-owned company at a time when its board continues to weigh up either a possible sale or initial public offering.

In his will, Armani instructed heirs to complete the sale of an initial 15 per cent stake of the business within 18 months of his death. He also singled out three preferred acquirers: French conglomerate LVMH, beauty behemoth L’Oréal and eyewear manufacturer Essilor Luxottica (the latter two hold licence deals for Armani beauty and eyewear, respectively). Neither of them has openly made an offer for the company yet, which posted a 2.8 per cent decline in annual sales to €2.2bn in April.

For the past year, the company has focused on continuity, entrusting the creative direction to the hands of Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani, longtime collaborators of the founder who have kept his aesthetic legacy intact. But Armani’s labels have long been in need of revitalisation. Vitale’s appointment at the company’s diffusion line could be a first and relatively low-stakes signal to potential acquirers that the business is ready to embark on a new phase of change and development despite a lack of clarity about its future.

Armani doesn’t break down sales between its different brands, but some analysts believe Emporio Armani generates about €700mn to €800mn in annual sales, or just over one-third of the group’s revenue. The appointment might also come as a déjà vu for Vitale. In March 2025, he became the first external designer to take the helm of Versace, replacing Donatella Versace, at a time when Versace was in the process of acquiring a new owner.

His September debut was cleverly executed and won over the press — this newspaper praised him for showcasing "a full rebrand, albeit one that flirted with late 1980s and 1990s Gianni Versace references while also claiming the brand as his own". But the role proved shortlived, after Prada — which also owns Miu Miu — agreed to buy the brand. In December, Vitale stepped down after just one runway collection when Prada finalised its $1.4bn acquisition of the label.

Miu Miu grew into a powerhouse while Vitale was there, becoming one of the most sought-after labels in fashion and achieving double-digit sales growth each year from 2020 to 2025. But industry speculation was that Prada executives had not seen Vitale as the r...