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Confronting South Korea’s Violent Past and Its Echoes Today

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The National Museum of Korean Democracy in Seoul documents the brutal suppression under South Korea’s military dictatorship, including the torture of Yoo Dong-woo in 1981 at the former Namyeong-dong Anti-Communist Interrogation Office. The museum, opened last year, preserves cells where detainees were held, some painted blood red, and features exhibits so gruesome they are off-limits to young children. Six months before opening, President Yoon Suk Yeol declared martial law, later receiving a life sentence for insurrection.

In May, a Starbucks promotion sparked outrage for appearing to mock the 1980 Gwangju massacre, followed by a Seoul high school baseball team taunting Gwangju opponents with chants like “Let’s go to Starbucks!” and “Tank Day!” Visitor Na Ji-hyun, detained in 1983 for teaching literacy to workers, recalled hours of interrogation and fear. The museum also honors Park Jong-cheol, a student activist killed by waterboarding in 1987, whose death helped trigger democratic reforms. Authorities initially claimed he died from a desk slam, but evidence pointed to torture.

The site’s narrow windows and disorienting staircase remain as architectural reminders of control.