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Swiss cross branding sparks debate over On's overseas production

Financial Times Companies •
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Swiss‑origin watchdog Swissness Enforcement challenged On over its use of the Swiss cross on shoes assembled in Asia. The dispute hinged on whether the cross implies Swiss manufacture, a concern for an industry worth SFr7bn annually. In 2025 the group lodged a complaint in China, prompting a legal showdown.

Switzerland's IP office ruled in March that the cross may signal Swiss engineering even if production occurs abroad, shifting the focus from factory location to design provenance. On defended its stance, noting that all research, development and design—handled by roughly 400 staff—remain in Zurich, while supply chains and tooling sit in Asia.

The case touches a broader identity question: does Swiss branding require domestic assembly, or can it rest on intellectual input? Comparisons to Rolex watches or Toblerone chocolate illustrate how other firms protect their heritage, sometimes relocating parts of production but retaining iconic symbols.

For investors, the outcome clarifies how Swiss brands can leverage “Swissness” without incurring prohibitive manufacturing costs. The ruling suggests that future disputes will likely assess where value is created rather than where the final stitch occurs.