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Swatch‑Audemars Piguet collab sparks chaos, adds $125m profit

Financial Times Companies •
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Swatch and Audemars Piguet unveiled the “Royal Pop” pocket watch this month, merging Swatch’s plastic case with the Royal Oak silhouette. Queues erupted outside stores in London, New York, Paris and elsewhere; police resorted to tear gas and pepper spray as hooded shoppers fought for a piece priced at £350. Social‑media clips show buyers hoping to resell the item for ten times that amount.

Bernstein analysts estimate production cost at roughly 20 % of the retail price, with a similar royalty share to Audemars Piguet. That leaves a 60 % gross margin, translating to at least SFr100mn ($125 mn) for Swatch Group if sales hit the lower bound of 500,000 units. The windfall would represent about 40 % of the company’s forecast net income for the year.

The partnership underscores a growing luxury trend: collaborations that generate buzz and attract younger consumers when demand stalls. Swatch, which has previously rescued Swiss watchmaking from quartz and smartphone disruptions, may have found another lifeline. Audemars Piguet’s upside remains ambiguous, but the episode proves that even elite brands will experiment with mass‑market tie‑ins to stay relevant and protect their heritage for decades.