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Patek Philippe Defies Industry Downturn

Financial Times Companies •
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Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern remains unfazed by the luxury watch industry downturn, reporting the family business continues to thrive amid broader economic turbulence. Morgan Stanley estimates Patek Philippe revenue jumped 25% over two years to SFr2.5bn ($3.2bn) last year, significantly outperforming industry peers despite global recessionary pressures. Stern attributes resilience to cautious allocation and a balanced global footprint.

The Swiss watchmaker recently acquired Zurich-based jeweller Beyer Chronometrie, founded in 1760, which will become the brand's fourth owned and operated boutique-style "salon." This strategic move comes as the top four privately owned Swiss watchmakers now control 50% of the luxury market, up from 37% in 2019, with smaller players facing existential threats. Stern maintains a targeted retail approach, having reduced points of sale from 500 in 2009 to 259 today while maintaining profitability.

Stern plans to step back in 10 years, with sons Adrien and Tristan positioned to lead. While rejecting Rolex's retail expansion and certified pre-owned strategies, he maintains Patek's exclusivity. "You don't come to Patek because it's more expensive," he asserts, positioning against status-seeking buyers while acknowledging auction markets treat Patek as trophy material.