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Master Poulet clash fuels French chicken culture war

Financial Times Companies •
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Master Poulet, a fast‑food chain specializing in grilled chicken, opened a storefront steps from Saint‑Ouen’s town hall in the Paris‑area working‑class suburb. The outlet serves tenders, wings, drumsticks, sausages and a novelty “chicken doughnut” alongside rice or fried plantains, with meals starting at €7. A line of hungry customers formed within minutes, underscoring demand for cheap, convenient protein. The venue seats a handful, relying on take‑away turnover.

Mayor Karim Bouamrane, a rising Socialist, sued the chain for alleged planning violations, noise and the belief that Saint‑Ouen already hosts too many cheap chicken joints. He framed the fight as a push for healthier, non‑ghettoising food options. He said veranda lacked permits, which chain refutes. The court ordered removal of concrete blocks the mayor had placed, prompting the shop to reopen with banner taunts.

The dispute has become a flashpoint in France’s wider culture wars, pitting far‑right anti‑halal rhetoric against left‑wing claims of economic justice. Poultry consumption overtook beef and pork in 2024, making low‑price chicken outlets attractive to investors. The saga shows identity politics may steer future rollouts. The standoff illustrates how local zoning battles can quickly affect brand perception and market expansion strategies in the French fast‑food sector.