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Chaumet revives enamel for winged high jewelry

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Chaumet is unveiling a nine-piece high jewelry capsule in Paris called Envol, inspired by a 1910 tiara bought by American sculptor Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney. The collection revives the plique-à-jour enamel technique, which allows light to pass through the jewel like stained glass, a method Joseph Chaumet patented for creating rounded, gem-like effects.

The wing motif is a historic signature for the 244-year-old house, appearing in its archive since 1810. The new designs require up to 850 hours of work, featuring hand-carved metal and a gradient of three blue enamels fired at 800°C. Each piece is transformable, with detachable wings that can be worn as brooches or a mask, emphasizing self-expression and artisanal savoir-faire.

This launch underscores the luxury sector's push to revive heritage craftsmanship for modern collectors. By emphasizing technical difficulty and historical provenance, Chaumet targets high-net-worth clients seeking unique, story-driven pieces. The collection’s price points are not disclosed, but such bespoke high jewelry typically commands six-figure sums, reinforcing the brand's position within the LVMH portfolio.