Zero West and Studio Underd0g lead British watch brands moving production in-house at London's British Watchmakers' Day, showcasing new capabilities like dial manufacturing and customer-built watches. This trend reflects a maturation of brands seeking greater control over quality and proprietary secrets, as highlighted by Alliance co-founder Alistair Audsley. Industry data shows the sector generated £206mn in 2023/24, with 141 companies now supporting 1,600 jobs—a 3.6-fold increase since 2021.

Thirty-five per cent of British watchmakers now have some in-house production, driven by pandemic-era sales growth and the Alliance's professionalization efforts. Vertex and Fears are establishing UK assembly centers, while Pinion offers a one-pair-of-hands experience. Audsley sees this as the next step in the sector's maturation, though full movement manufacturing remains a distant goal.