With days until the pivotal US midterm elections, Washington is embroiled in an unlikely political battle over whether to ban foie gras. A ballot measure for DC residents on Tuesday has enraged both gourmets and Maga inhabitants. Butterworth’s restaurant, the unofficial Maga clubhouse on Capitol Hill, has become the heart of the pro-foie gras resistance, hosting a $150 four-course tasting menu. Chef Bart Hutchins, co-owner with former Nigel Farage adviser Raheem Kassam, defends the “gavage” process and warns that banning the delicacy could lead to restrictions on cooking octopus and pigs. The fight has fostered rare bipartisan consensus, with progressive activist José Andrés also opposing the ban. Campaigners for the ban, including Pro-Animal Future, have spent over $470,000 and are using a pet duck named Olivia to appeal to voters. Pro-Animal DC argues that DC ranks as the third-largest consumer of foie gras in the country, behind New York and Las Vegas. The measure has also gained traction in Denver, Colorado, as animal-rights groups push for broader bans.
Butterworth’s has become a symbol of resistance, rallying supporters with duck-shaped dishes and defiant messaging. Hutchins insists that if serving foie gras remains illegal, he will defy the law. The campaign reflects the deeply polarized nature of American politics, even extending to food culture.
José Andrés, who runs seven restaurants in DC, questioned why foie gras alone faces prohibition if animal cruelty is the concern, suggesting beef, pork, and chicken would also be targeted. He urged focus on ending hunger instead.
Despite protests against individual restaurants failing to stop sales, Pro-Animal Future aims to shut down the industry nationwide, arguing that force-feeding animals until diseased is inhumane.
Source: Financial Times Companies · Summarized by HeadlinesBriefing