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Bordeaux Wineries Face Threat from Zombie Fires

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Wildfires burning near Bordeaux have put some of France’s most famous winemakers on edge, as shifting winds threaten to push flames or smoke towards vineyards just weeks before harvest. At Château Malartic-Lagravière, which has been producing grand cru reds for more than two centuries, growers are scrutinising the winds and climbing temperatures. The domaine, just south of Bordeaux, is only 10km from areas evacuated because of fire risk. Séverine Bonnie, who works at the château, said “There is talk of zombie fires that keep coming back to life,” and added that the situation remains fragile.

Authorities said the fire in Gironde was no longer expanding, but firefighters were still battling breakouts, with officials saying the next 48 hours would be critical after crews dug 127km of trenches and doused areas with fire retardant. Some 80,000 people who had been evacuated were authorised to return home. Wildfires have become a growing threat to French winemakers, adding to climate‑change strains such as shorter growing seasons and lower yields. Smoke from burning wood can damage grapes from afar, as volatile phenols are absorbed through their skin and later release smoky or ashy flavours during fermentation. Eric Serrano of France’s Vine and Wine Institute warned it is a “time bomb.”

Some 115,000 hectares have burned in France this summer, putting it on course for the worst wildfire season since 1949. In Provence, grower Gilles Troullier lost nearly all of his 9‑hectare vineyard, including 30‑year‑old Carignan vines. Lucie Moutonnet of Domaine de la Mercadine said flames had ripped through 14 of 18 hectares, leaving her to decide whether to harvest smoke‑exposed grapes. The Bordeaux region also faces market pressures, with about 21,000 hectares removed between August 2023 and May 2026 and the fine‑wine market losing nearly a fifth of its value over five years. Adeline Divot of Château Guiraud noted that the Landes forest helps create the fog essential for Sauternes’ noble rot, warning that its loss would threaten the appellation.